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Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast

Perfecting Chocolate Chip Cookies, featuring Zoë François

Mon, 28 Apr 2025

Description

We’re kicking off our first season by talking about one of the most quintessential American bakes: chocolate chip cookies!   Hosts Jessica and David are joined by best-selling cookbook author Zoë François, who talks about the extensive chocolate chip cookie testing she did for her latest book, Zoë Bakes Cookies, as well as the surprising role cookies played in her family history. Then, Jessica and David answer your burning cookie questions in Ask the Bakers, including tips on the best chocolate to use and the necessary tool you need for consistent cookie baking. They close out the episode with a detour into space, Jessica’s soapbox on why warm chocolate chip cookies are actually bad (!), and the recipes they’re baking this week.  Recipes and other links from this episode:  Find Zoë’s book here: Zoë Bakes Cookies Follow Zoë on Instagram and Substack  Zoë’s Smash Cookies recipe (the cover star of her book!)  Oatmeal-Date Smash Cookies recipe King Arthur’s 2024 Recipe of the Year: Supersized, Super-Soft Chocolate Chip Cookies What David’s baking this week: Sesame Wheat recipe What Jessica’s baking this week: Roti Canai recipe Our favorite baking scale: Essential Digital Scale Shop all our chocolate, from chunks to chips  Record your question for our Ask the Bakers segment here! 

Audio
Transcription

Chapter 1: What are the origins of chocolate chip cookies?

726.813 - 752.561 Zoë François

Yes. And people are mad for this. It's just not necessarily my taste. But they are outrageously popular. So I may be alone in this. So anyway, I bake them. And then because I wasn't loving them, I just took a spatula and smashed them down. And the way that they set up after I did that was... was very exciting to me.

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752.701 - 776.667 Zoë François

Like all of a sudden they had just the right amount of that ooey gooeyness in the center. It wasn't like this big old block of it. So I take this giant ball, I actually bake them so you get this sort of crispy outside. And then I smash them once they come out and let them set just like that. That way you get that sort of ooey gooey center.

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776.827 - 785.05 Zoë François

If you put them back in the oven, they're gonna set up a little bit more. Again, Whatever your preference is, try it both ways and see which one you love.

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785.43 - 799.856 Jessica Badalana

I know our test kitchen director, Sarah, was very inspired by the technique. So she applied it to her recipe for oatmeal and date smash cookies, which you can find on the King Arthur website, as well as linked in the show notes, and which is one of my very favorite new recipes of ours.

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799.936 - 807.479 David Tamarkin

Zoe Francois, thank you so much for being our guest here on Things Bakers Know. I want to give you the last word. If there's anything else you want to say about chocolate chip cookies...

808.618 - 811.539 Zoë François

A big tall glass of milk. That's it.

812.199 - 822.623 David Tamarkin

Perfect. We'll put a link to Zoe's habit forming chocolate chip smash cookies in the show notes, as well as a link to your phenomenal book, Zoe Bakes Cookies. Zoe, where else can our bakers find you?

823.223 - 831.366 Zoë François

Basically, Zoe Bakes Anywhere on Instagram, Substack, my website, Facebook. It's all Zoe Bakes.

831.526 - 832.466 Jessica Badalana

Amazing. Great.

Chapter 2: Why are chocolate chip cookies so popular?

1643.0 - 1658.254 Jessica Badalana

No, I mean, I like, I still want my chocolate to be like, not hard, right? Like I want there to still be some like chocolate pooling. But I think the overall textural experience for me is better when cookies have had say like, I don't know, 10 or 15 minutes to cool.

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1658.354 - 1682.29 Jessica Badalana

So they're like, you know, they're solidly room temperature on the warm side of room temperature, but they're not like a molten cookie experience. Yeah. I think what I don't like about a warm chocolate chip cookie is that there is no sort of textural contrast, right? Like it's just sort of like raw dough. You know, there's not like a distinction between the edge and the middle.

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1682.37 - 1687.012 Jessica Badalana

It just feels like an underdone to me in a way that I don't find appealing.

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1687.413 - 1698.249 David Tamarkin

That's a good point. The edges have not had time to set up and get crispy. Right. So it's all it's sort of like all middle. All middle. Yeah. Oh, gosh. I never thought about that before. Now I'm getting a little grossed out.

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1698.969 - 1699.73 Jessica Badalana

Now you're getting a Jess opinion.

1699.75 - 1701.171 David Tamarkin

Don't change me because I like the way I am.

1701.752 - 1705.255 Jessica Badalana

So I don't know. I mean, are we going to get hate mail? I don't know what's going to happen.

1705.275 - 1718.626 David Tamarkin

Definitely going to get hate mail. But you know what? I will defend you till the day I die. You have a right to like cookies at whatever temperature you want. And that temperature seems to be not too cold. Definitely not warm, but just right. And that's fine.

1723.803 - 1733.606 Jessica Badalana

David, before we go, I want to tell you about something I learned while working on this episode. There is a chocolate chip cookie that is so special, it's in a museum.

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