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Today, Explained

How Abercrombie made a comeback

Fri, 29 Nov 2024

Description

Fast Company’s senior fashion writer Elizabeth Segran explains how the company overcame a problematic history to pull off a renaissance in this rebroadcast of our episode from July. This episode was produced by Amanda Lewellyn, edited by Amina Al-Sadi, fact-checked by Matt Collette, engineered by Patrick Boyd and Andrea Kristinsdottir, and hosted by Noel King. Transcript at vox.com/today-explained-podcast Support Today, Explained by becoming a Vox Member today: http://www.vox.com/members Abercrombie & Fitch models in 2005. Photo by David Pomponio/FilmMagic for Paul Wilmot Communications. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Audio
Transcription

Chapter 1: What was Abercrombie & Fitch's cultural significance in the late 90s?

4.368 - 21.485 Elizabeth Segran

Summer of 1999. Britney had her first hit. TLC had their millionth. American Pie was in theaters. Carson Daly was on TRL. And the cool kids wore Abercrombie and Fitch. Abercrombie didn't invent the American teenager. Hollywood did that.

0

21.665 - 24.148 Unknown Speaker

You're tearing me apart!

0

25.12 - 28.821 Elizabeth Segran

But for a time, it defined what it meant to dress and act like a teenager.

0

29.241 - 32.082 Unknown Speaker

Look at him. It's like Abercrombie's making people now.

0

32.182 - 55.354 Elizabeth Segran

But then the brand cratered, done in by the cheap shots it took at women, Asians, West Virginia, and male gymnasts, among others, and a CEO who was recently charged with running a sex trafficking ring. But quietly, Abercrombie has been mounting an incredible comeback. You might even find yourself in one this Black Friday, and you will not be alone. Coming up on Today Explained.

61.189 - 102.621 Noel King

That's public.com slash podcast. Paid for by Public Investing. All investing involves risk of loss, including loss of principal. Brokerage services for U.S. listed registered securities, options, and bonds in a self-directed account are offered by Public Investing Incorporated, member FINRA and SIPC. Complete disclosures available at public.com slash disclosures.

106.59 - 112.116 Noel King

Yes, hi, I'd like to order a pizza. Okay, can I ask you a question? Is the cute blonde guy delivering tonight?

112.957 - 123.75 Elizabeth Segran

Very Abercrombie and Fitch? I'm Noelle King with Elizabeth Segrin. She's a senior staff writer at Fast Company. She writes about the fashion industry. And Elizabeth's early memories of Abercrombie?

124.25 - 149.942 Unknown Speaker

Okay, so I did not grow up in this country because my dad worked for an airline. I spent most of my childhood in Europe and Asia. And so my first experience even hearing about Abercrombie & Fitch came in 1999 when I was a junior in high school. It was called Summer Girls by LFO. It was such an iconic song.

Chapter 2: What led to Abercrombie's decline?

505.256 - 522.219 Unknown Speaker

My, you know, favorite, you know, example of how racist they were was that in 2002, they released this t-shirt that featured two Chinese men on it with very offensively slanted eyes. And it was designed to look like a shirt from like a laundromat.

0

522.379 - 526.42 Unknown Speaker

And the slogan on it was, Two Wongs can make it white.

0

527.091 - 540.585 Unknown Speaker

I just want to know, like, what was the process of making like who was in the room when they made this? Like, did they just did they just think like, oh, OK, this is kind of a funny pun. Like, let's just go with it. Right. Or was there anybody there who was like rolling their eyes? I don't think so.

0

540.665 - 563.285 Unknown Speaker

I think that they had hired, you know, a team of executives that didn't have the ability to understand exactly how egregious that was. And, you know, in 2003, the brand faced a class action lawsuit where all of these plaintiffs argued that Abercrombie did not hire black, Asian, and Latino people in stores. So I was totally onto that.

0

563.305 - 568.73 Noel King

Hold up, shorties. Each photo costs $10. And the proceeds go to charity.

569.17 - 570.111 Unknown Speaker

Oh, what charity is that?

570.471 - 572.873 Unknown Speaker

It's to pay for the $40 million lawsuit against us.

573.593 - 573.914 Unknown Speaker

Yeah.

573.934 - 577.676 Unknown Speaker

A bunch of minorities sued Abercrombie because they only hire foxy white guys.

Chapter 6: What changes did Abercrombie make during its comeback?

4.368 - 21.485 Elizabeth Segran

Summer of 1999. Britney had her first hit. TLC had their millionth. American Pie was in theaters. Carson Daly was on TRL. And the cool kids wore Abercrombie and Fitch. Abercrombie didn't invent the American teenager. Hollywood did that.

0

21.665 - 24.148 Unknown Speaker

You're tearing me apart!

0

25.12 - 28.821 Elizabeth Segran

But for a time, it defined what it meant to dress and act like a teenager.

0

29.241 - 32.082 Unknown Speaker

Look at him. It's like Abercrombie's making people now.

0

32.182 - 55.354 Elizabeth Segran

But then the brand cratered, done in by the cheap shots it took at women, Asians, West Virginia, and male gymnasts, among others, and a CEO who was recently charged with running a sex trafficking ring. But quietly, Abercrombie has been mounting an incredible comeback. You might even find yourself in one this Black Friday, and you will not be alone. Coming up on Today Explained.

61.189 - 102.621 Noel King

That's public.com slash podcast. Paid for by Public Investing. All investing involves risk of loss, including loss of principal. Brokerage services for U.S. listed registered securities, options, and bonds in a self-directed account are offered by Public Investing Incorporated, member FINRA and SIPC. Complete disclosures available at public.com slash disclosures.

106.59 - 112.116 Noel King

Yes, hi, I'd like to order a pizza. Okay, can I ask you a question? Is the cute blonde guy delivering tonight?

112.957 - 123.75 Elizabeth Segran

Very Abercrombie and Fitch? I'm Noelle King with Elizabeth Segrin. She's a senior staff writer at Fast Company. She writes about the fashion industry. And Elizabeth's early memories of Abercrombie?

124.25 - 149.942 Unknown Speaker

Okay, so I did not grow up in this country because my dad worked for an airline. I spent most of my childhood in Europe and Asia. And so my first experience even hearing about Abercrombie & Fitch came in 1999 when I was a junior in high school. It was called Summer Girls by LFO. It was such an iconic song.

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