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Short Wave

Eating Breakfast? You Can Thank Fermentation

Mon, 11 Nov 2024

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In this episode, you're invited to the fermentation party! Join us as we learn about the funk-filled process behind making sauerkraut, sourdough and sour beer. Plus, no fermentation episode is complete without a lil history of our boy, yeast.Learn more about sponsor message choices: podcastchoices.com/adchoicesNPR Privacy Policy

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Chapter 1: What role does fermentation play in breakfast foods?

0.785 - 26.291 Regina Barber

You're listening to Shortwave from NPR. Hey, Shortwavers, it's Regina Barber. And we're starting today's episode with breakfast. Because regardless of what you had for breakfast today, chances are at least part of it was made by fermentation. Yogurt and granola, fermentation. Eggs with cheese, fermentation. Bread, fermentation. It's even key in coffee.

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26.531 - 44.755 David Olson

When a coffee bean is harvested, you know, in the jungles of Costa Rica or Colombia or wherever it might be, those berries, which look like little tiny cherries or almost like crab apples, they get hauled into baskets or trucks and then like thrown onto the ground. And there's either like dry or wet fermentations.

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45.575 - 64.088 David Olson

But in both cases, just whatever endemic microbes are in the jungle, on the fruit, start to acidify and metabolize all of the fruit flesh. And all those metabolites, all the acids that are produced, all the organic molecules seep into the actual coffee bean itself and change its flavor.

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64.741 - 79.188 Regina Barber

This is David Zilber, chef, reality TV show host, and former director of the Fermentation Lab at the world-famous Danish restaurant Noma. And he told me, if fermentation wasn't part of my coffee, it wouldn't even be good.

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79.648 - 98.394 David Olson

If you took a fresh coffee bean and completely stripped it of the fruit and dried it immediately and went through the same roasting process, you would end up with the most like... flat, cardboardy, acrid coffee compared to what happens post-fermentation. So fermentation is an incredibly important step in coffee production.

98.875 - 100.136 Regina Barber

To make it taste delicious.

100.736 - 102.038 David Olson

Yeah. Complex.

102.818 - 107.523 Regina Barber

Okay, I'm convinced. Fermentation is important. But what exactly is it?

107.984 - 113.389 David Olson

Fermentation is the transformation of one food into another with the help of microbes.

Chapter 2: How does fermentation affect coffee flavor?

350.578 - 368.351 David Olson

And it's your job to suppress those microbes immediately by using things like oxygen or an absence of oxygen, more specifically, or salt to make sure that they are tamped down and you give center stage to those lactic acid bacteria.

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368.951 - 372.194 Regina Barber

Right, right. And so what do they do, like those lactic acid bacteria?

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372.634 - 394.639 David Olson

They will start to... release enzymes into their environment that will break up the carbohydrates in the plant cells themselves and allow them to digest these sugars. Carbohydrates and starch and lots of plant fibers are just stitched together chains of simple sugar molecules like glucose. And so...

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395.876 - 402.798 David Olson

In the great tree of life, lots of organisms have devised enzymes that snip those daisy chains into their constituent molecules.

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403.158 - 424.004 David Olson

Then they can grab an easily handable portion of chemical energy in the form of sugar, eat it, and through the process of fermentation, which going back to the textbook microbiology definition, is the metabolism in the absence of oxygen of a sugar molecule into either ethanol or lactic acid.

425.322 - 439.744 Regina Barber

Okay, so just to review, the microbes take the sugar, like from the carbs and starches and whatever food they're given, and they start to break it down. They start to eat it, right? And that process of microbes eating sugars and turning it into energy, that's fermentation.

440.645 - 445.805 David Olson

Yeah. And then when it harvests the chemical energy, energy for its own purposes, what's left over is lact gas.

445.845 - 447.166 Regina Barber

Okay. That's the byproduct.

447.186 - 451.746 David Olson

That's the byproduct. That's like microbial poop, basically.

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