Adva Amir

When I started surfing, I loved it so much that I went out like every day that I could. And then... I heard the comments of people telling me, now you're too old, right? Because now I'm 31. I'm not 21. When I was 21, I started flying. I was too young. But now learning a sport at 31 is too old. You're too old. You're never going to get it. You cannot improve at that age.

When I started surfing, I loved it so much that I went out like every day that I could. And then... I heard the comments of people telling me, now you're too old, right? Because now I'm 31. I'm not 21. When I was 21, I started flying. I was too young. But now learning a sport at 31 is too old. You're too old. You're never going to get it. You cannot improve at that age.

You have to be really dedicated for that. And... I finally found something that I'm so passionate about. And all these comments right now, they didn't do anything for me because I knew better now because I already experienced all these comments before. And when I'm passionate about something, I don't care about anything else. I'm just going with it. And

You have to be really dedicated for that. And... I finally found something that I'm so passionate about. And all these comments right now, they didn't do anything for me because I knew better now because I already experienced all these comments before. And when I'm passionate about something, I don't care about anything else. I'm just going with it. And

I just got aboard and just started going out again and again and again and again and again. And one day I was in the water and there was another Israeli guy over there and we got connected. He became my coach and everything just happened fluently and naturally. And I moved to smaller boards and I started surfing bigger waves. And every step of the way, I was so scared.

I just got aboard and just started going out again and again and again and again and again. And one day I was in the water and there was another Israeli guy over there and we got connected. He became my coach and everything just happened fluently and naturally. And I moved to smaller boards and I started surfing bigger waves. And every step of the way, I was so scared.

Even today, when I go in the water, I'm like, I have this fear of the big waves, of not being good, of falling in front of other people, which is supposed to be fun. But, you know, when you have to tell yourself and talk to yourself and, you know, just enjoy it.

Even today, when I go in the water, I'm like, I have this fear of the big waves, of not being good, of falling in front of other people, which is supposed to be fun. But, you know, when you have to tell yourself and talk to yourself and, you know, just enjoy it.

First of all, Ilana, I'm a spoiled surfer. So this is why I surf in Hawaii, only in warm water. Ah, okay.

First of all, Ilana, I'm a spoiled surfer. So this is why I surf in Hawaii, only in warm water. Ah, okay.

What I realized this year, because last year I was surfing during the winter and the winter is where we get here, the bigger waves and suddenly pushing myself to bigger and bigger waves. And I remember like some sessions I would be out there, I would be so, so scared. I don't even want to catch one wave. I would just be there scared.

What I realized this year, because last year I was surfing during the winter and the winter is where we get here, the bigger waves and suddenly pushing myself to bigger and bigger waves. And I remember like some sessions I would be out there, I would be so, so scared. I don't even want to catch one wave. I would just be there scared.

Fast forward to this winter, all of a sudden you go to the same spots and you have the same waves and you're not as fear as you were. So I learned the fear level also can change, but it's a matter of pushing yourself. And even if not catching any wave, being out there, sometimes you just have to be. And from being at a spot, you'll grow.

Fast forward to this winter, all of a sudden you go to the same spots and you have the same waves and you're not as fear as you were. So I learned the fear level also can change, but it's a matter of pushing yourself. And even if not catching any wave, being out there, sometimes you just have to be. And from being at a spot, you'll grow.

I need to work on it, Ilana. I need to chill, you're right. Yeah, for sure. I think this is a thing for me. It's hard for me to just chill. And I know I need this, but it's kind of a race that I need to tell myself, okay, today you are resting, you're staying at home or at the beach. I think there is this part of it that, yes, I need to chill for sure. It's

I need to work on it, Ilana. I need to chill, you're right. Yeah, for sure. I think this is a thing for me. It's hard for me to just chill. And I know I need this, but it's kind of a race that I need to tell myself, okay, today you are resting, you're staying at home or at the beach. I think there is this part of it that, yes, I need to chill for sure. It's

And it's not easy sometimes for some people. On the other hand, I think when you're doing stuff that you're very passionate about, you always want to do that. You want to fly, you want to surf. So I'm happy that I found my passion. Finally, it's like some people would say it's late in life. Yeah. But I was doing a lot of sports as a young kid. I was swimming. I was playing volleyball.

And it's not easy sometimes for some people. On the other hand, I think when you're doing stuff that you're very passionate about, you always want to do that. You want to fly, you want to surf. So I'm happy that I found my passion. Finally, it's like some people would say it's late in life. Yeah. But I was doing a lot of sports as a young kid. I was swimming. I was playing volleyball.

I was playing soccer. I did a lot of things and I was swimming too. And when I found surfing, all the sparks in the air, like you fall in love. It's what happened to me. Yeah.

I was playing soccer. I did a lot of things and I was swimming too. And when I found surfing, all the sparks in the air, like you fall in love. It's what happened to me. Yeah.